Sounding Free on the rocks!
September, 2007
(click on any picture for a full size view)
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Well, here is every sailors
nightmare ...their boat on a lee shore. Sounding Free came
ashore about 30 meters out from here, but alas I couldn't get an
anchor set (the waves were huge). So, as the tide came in,
so did the boat.
The beach here at our
house is mostly small rocks (fist sized), gravel and sand. It is
not too bad, considering the rocks on the other side of that
little jetty you see in the picture. But, it did quite a
bit of damage (severe gouges, depth transducer, bottom of the
rudder, etc).
I called a salvage firm
from Auckland (12 miles away) and had them there the very next
day. They were superb, and had SF off the beach in 20
minutes.
In all the bill came to
over $9,000 for the hull and deck repairs, and $2,500 for the
salvage firm. |
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Orapiu bay has a beautiful
beach area, but not for boats! |
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This miserable piece of
mooring gear got caught in the space between my hull and rudder,
and came dragging ashore with Sounding Free.
This is a very typical
home-made mooring...the tire is filled with concrete. |
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The boat builder who was
contracted by the insurance agent found the prospect of getting
these sampson posts out a real headache. The carriage
bolts in the forward bulkhead were very corroded...and simply
spun in place.
I had been wanting to
replace the ancient manual windlass, so I drew up detailed plans
to have a bowsprit cap made of heavy stainless steel. The
idea was to replace the function of the sampson posts
(compression posts for the bowsprit) and to allow me to have a
top plate for mounting a new Maxwell 1500 windlass.
We removed the windlass,
cut off the bowsprit at the line shown, and then cut off the
sampson posts level with the deck. We then filled the
existing anchor chain holes, bolt holes and sampson post space
with epoxy filler, and then covered it all with teak (also
bonded with epoxy to the deck for strength). |
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The boat builder did a
perfect job on this, and listened very carefully to what I
wanted. Unusual in this day! After all the work was
completed, the paint shop came up and perfectly matched the deck
paint, blending around the edge of the teak pad. |
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The shop took my drawings
and created this massive looking mounting out of heavy gauge
stainless. It didn't look as big on paper! Read on to find
out why I designed this with the plate extending forward on the
top of the bowsprit. |
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See that cleat? That is
one solid piece of steel that is welded right to the plate.
The lead from the rollers is just perfect for a mooring line,
and places the entire load fore-n-aft on the cleat. And that
means the entire stainless mounting is holding it as well!
In all there are seven 1/2" bolts extending through the deck,
with hefty stainless backing plates on the other side, of
course.
There will also be a very
massive cleat mounted just aft of the windlass mounting on the
deck pad. I had a stainless angle backing plate made that
will not only be bolted to the deck with 1/2" bolts, but also to
the forward bulkhead.
This will give me peace of
mind again! |
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The insurance adjuster
didn't want to try to individually repair the myriad gouges, so
he authorized the yard to take all the paint off of the bottom.
You can see the number of gouges that SF suffered (grey fill).
After all these years, there were only a handful of small
blisters...the yard was amazed...and those were easily repaired.
When they finished with the grinding they spend a huge amount of
time smooth sanding. After fairing, they sprayed two coats
of epoxy barrier coating, followed by two of bottom paint. |
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And here she is, almost
ready to go back in the water. The yard spent 5 weeks
working on the hull (and letting it dry). It is so smooth
and fair...I've never seen it looking so good, |
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What a change of
direction in life. A new home. Wow.

Updated
09/16/07
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